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Whenever curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. However, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.